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Mizen Head, Co. Cork

Mizen Head is situated at the very South-Western point of Ireland and approached by the N71 via Skibbereen and onwards through the villages of Schull and Goleen. The last village on the peninsula is Crookhaven.

There are several good shore dives, but to appreciate the area at best boats are required. Due to their exposed locations, many of these dives are suitable only for experienced divers and in calm conditions.

Galley Cove

The most Westerly access point on the South coast is Galley Cove, about 2km before Crookhaven, where a fine sandy beach opens up on your right with a good view of Fastnet Rock 10km out to sea. Small boats can be launched across the beach, while large RIB's should be launched at Crookhaven where there is a good slip and motored the 5km around Sreek Head to meet the rest of your group at Galley Cove beach. From here there are a selection of sites ranging from simple shore dives to spectacular boat dives under cliffs for the very experienced diver.

1. Galley Cove Rock
just 100m from the beach there is excellent snorkelling inside the rock over a gently sloping sandy bottom with rocky outcrops. Beyond the island there are interesting gullies in a depth range 10-25m suitable for the less experienced diver or for those without a boat.

2. Carrigadeavaun
About 1km East of Galley Cove is a rock that looks like it has just split off from the mainland. There is some shelter from a Westerly swell behind it which can make kitting up more comfortable. there is an interesting bottom at 20m usually covered with feather and brittle stars. swimming towards the point of the rock and out to sea the bottom tumbles down to 35-40m with a lot of life all the way down. This site is suitable for intermediate and advanced divers as you can easily select your depth.

3. Reen Point
Heading West from the cove the first headland reached after only 400m is Reen Point. Here the depth drops off rapidly to 40m just off-shore in several jagged steps. There can be a gentle tidal current and excellent walls of jewel anenomes.
The bay between Reen Point and Brow Head was known as a mating ground for basking sharks, but they are rarely seen now. There is good 30m diving all along under the cliffs heading West to Brow Head with no noticeable current. An old anchor was spotted a few years ago about 800m short of Brow Head in 20m of water but there is no sign of any wrecks.

Mizen Head

THE FOLLOWING DIVES ARE ONLY SUITABLE FOR THE EXPERIENCED
IN CALM WEATHER CONDITIONS!

NB: The Mizen Head area offers some of Ireland's best diving, but can be dangerous. Make sure your equipment is reliable, 2 boats and a VHF radio should be considered the minimum. Be on the look out for changing conditions when the tide turns.

4. Brow Head
There is spectacular diving under the towering cliffs at Brow head, the Southern most point of Ireland. The tide can be very strong here so it should be only dived at slack water.

For those ready for it there is a stunning drift dive from the tip of the headland going West towards Mizen Head when the tide has just turned to ebb.

There is a reef about 20m which runs parallel to the flow and lasts for at least 1km. With a gentle current and good visibility, you can cruise from ridge to ridge which, due to the high energy environment, are carpeted with Dead Man's Fingers and Jeweled Anenomes. Taking care not to slip off the top of the reef into deeper water on either side, you can get a full half hour drift while keeping above 24m. Excellent boat cover is essential.

Every diver should also carry some additional method of signaling in case of separation. Being alone 1km off the end of Ireland is very lonely!

5. Carrignagower
This rock, which is awash at high water, lies 50m off shore about 1km before Mizen Head. even in the calmest weather the swell breaks against it. The outside of the rock is an excellent wall with marine growth on every square inch. This is a slack water dive only! There is a safe passage inside the rock for those heading for the Mizen.

6. Mizen Head
When the weather is very calm this is the place to head for, but conditions North of the point can be very different to those on the approach. If you are unhappy about rounding the point there is a lot of good diving close in between the point and the bridge where 35m is easily reached.

On the mainland side of the bridge the water is shallower and the diving less demanding. For those who have the necessary permit, the cannons and anchors of the L'impatient (sunk 1796) lie off the small headland which also has a small pier and access steps.

Back to the tip of Mizen, right under the lighthouse there is a deep gully where at least 3 boats have been wrecked, 2 trawlers, Ribble (1906) and Manoes (1908) along with the yacht Taurima (1975). The weather must be flat calm to allow divers to venture right up to the gully, but who knows what nay be found among the rocks!

The reef out from the tip of the Mizen offers diving that is hard to beat anywhere with stunning scenery and large shoals of fish. However since the tide runs across the reef (rather than along it as at Brow Head) you can only dive here at exactly slack water, so plan to travel a little earlier and be prepared to wait.

North of the Mizen is a graveyard of many steamers and coasters from around the turn of the century. Irada (1908), Bohemian (1887), Memphis (1896) and several more. Very little structure has survived the ravages of a century of winter storms, but wreckage can be seen on almost every dive in this area.

7. The Copper Boat
The remains of the "Oswertery" lie wedged on the North side of a towering stack 500m North of Mizen Head. Sometimes mistakenly called the Irada the wreck got it's name from the 40kg copper ingots that were in it's cargo and could still be found up to a few years ago. A couple are still visible but have resisted all attempts to move them! There is little structure left but the wreck is easy to find, only 15-20m deep and it is the most impressive site for a rummage.

Shore Dives

Apart from the straight forward shore dive at Galley Cove, there are several advanced shore dives at exposed small piers around the Mizen Headland. They all require a walk from the car to the access point and it would be wise to check the conditions before kitting up. If there is a significant swell do not enter the water as it can be difficult to get out after a dive when you are tired. There is no significant tide runs at these sites, but at low tide access steps will be high and dry.

8. Vaud Cove
Follow the road West from Goleen towards Mizen Head. 800m past the Barley Cove Hotel the road widens on the left. Turn down here towards a farmhouse. Just before the house turn right through a gate along a track towards an isolated modern house. From here the footpath goes off to the left before swinging round and down to a small pier after 200m. Entering the water it is worth snorkelling across to the right hand point and diving on the cliffs beyond. This site is exposed to S and SE winds.

9. Dunlough Pier
Approaching Mizen Head, ignore the turn to the left before the Barley Cove Hotel and continue straight on up to the T junction. Turn right and follow the road until it ends in about 2 miles. To reach the pier, walk straight ahead, cross the steep slipway and clamber about 3m and you will see the steps leading to a small pier about 50m away. In the water snorkel across to the point opposite before going down and out along the gullies where 30m depth can be easily reached. This site is very exposed to Westerly swells and winds.

10. Toor Pier
While technically in Dunmanus Bay, this site is grouped under Mizen Head shore dives due to it's similar exposed and spectacular location approaching Mizen Head, about 1km before the turn off to the Barley Cove Hotel, there is a National School on the right. Take the next turn to the right after about 100m. Follow the road up and over the hill and down towards Dunmanus Bay until the road ends, from where there is a footpath 100m down to the pier.
In the water the best diving is along the cliff to the right of the pier where ridges run out to meet the sand at about 30m. For the more energetic the diving around the right hand point of the Island is well worth the effort, while the tunnel through the headland and surrounding area is shallow but quite interesting, but the gullies run in all directions making navigation difficult. It is an excellent spot for the advanced snorkeller.