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Kilkee, Co. Clare
Kilkee is probably the most popular dive site in Ireland at present. Situated on the South West Clare coastline it owes its existence to a natural break in the cliff wall facing the Atlantic. It is renowned for it's deep clear water and an abundance of flora and fauna. Because of it's exposed location the elements have ensured that Kilkee is well preserved and not over-dived as many a more sheltered location tends to be. There are over twenty surveyed dive sites some of which are described.
Kilkee has a Dive Centre and Marine Rescue Centre which is manned on a voluntary basis.
1. Newfee
Near the car park on the South side of the bay, down step steps, Newfee
is the most sheltered of all Kilkee dive sites and is usually accessible
in all but the worst conditions. It is ideal for inexperienced divers.
The best course is to proceed over Kelp 30 degrees West of North towards the inner face of Duggerna Head. There is a rock reef on a sandy bottom and a maximum depth of 10 metres.
2. Myles Creek
Myles Creek is a North facing inlet on the top of the Duggerna Rocks,
a large reef covered by tides at the mouth of Kilkee Bay. It is accessed
by road on the South side of the bay and trekking over the rocks at
low water. Beware of slipping and allow plenty of time in your planning.
Except in very calm conditions, when it can be dived from a boat, the site is otherwise very tide sensitive. For shore diving, it is essential to enter the water before low water, preferably 30 minutes before. This gives you a dive in calm water. If there is white water out there, or a bad forecast, don't dive it.
The creek is initially shallow (3m) with a ladder for bathers in the
Summer.
There is a drop off to about 14m into a sheltered valley, often with
startlingly clear water, given reasonable conditions. This has spectacular
colours on floors and walls covered with anenomes and is generally populated
by a variety of fish. If one follows the left hand cliff, this turns
round a corner and the protection ceases. You are now on a more normal
dive site with kelp on the floor. Go North to the next drop, about 20m.
Again follow the cliff on your left and you will eventually encounter
a large cave at about 33m. You should check your air and perhaps start
back.
This dive can be made from the sea, however there are submerged rocks both sides of the entrance. The shallow valley is ideal for novices in very calm conditions at only 14m and clear water. This is an excellent site for snorkellers too.
On a shore dive, you have to exit in exactly the same place and must navigate back correctly. the alternative is an almost impossibly long swim around the reef to Newfree.
3. Doctor's Rock
1st. Dive - Located on the face of Duggerna Reef this is a pleasant
shore dive that begins in a sheltered rock pool, proceeds through a
narrow channel into a wider bay of water and drops at the beginning
of the main reef face. It is generally necessary to return by the same
route for safety , so a sense of navigation and monitoring of air consumption
is required.
The pool, which is easy to enter, is shallow and weedy, with occasional
pockets of depth. the channel has deep grooves each side of the shallow
centre rock, which provide access to the sea. The Northern side is more
interesting. Save this for the return journey.
The outer pool starts at about only 5m, but is beautifully coloured
with a carpet of anenomes.
Depth increases seawards until one reaches a drop-off face to about
15m. there is a small cave on this face which is often home to a very
large conger eel. This eel sometimes moves around the general area and
may even pass you during the dive. It is not dangerous, just big!
Follow the rock face to the North (keeping it on your right), when the
floor changes from solid rock to stones and eventually back to solid
rock with a light carpet of anenomes and moss. Check your AIR SUPPLY.
If all members have enough air proceed further along the cliff face
which gets better and better. Air is really the big factor here. If
you have to surface before the pool, you will not get back easily except
in very calm conditions.
2nd. Dive - Follow same course until you sight large rock on the seaweed
side, circle this and return along the face towards the pool drop-off.
If air supply is sufficient, continue South along the rock face to yet
another off-shore rock. Circle this (go under the fallen rock arch)
and then return along the rock face to the pool drop-off, ascend, and
navigate back.
If your group has enough air you can explore around the North area of
the outer pool or through the caves on the north side of the channel
on the way back.
This can be a very simple and pleasant dive. Flora and fauna vary throughout the year, even from year to year. Diveable only in calm conditions, it can be ideal for novices, but be aware of the potential problems of the site.
Dangers: slippery rocks, the site is very tide sensitive, the turning tide may make return difficult. The best entry is about 30 minutes before low tide and also it is necessary to exit in the same place, due to more difficulty elsewhere. Air awareness is essential for both these reasons, surfacing in breaking waves can be dangerous.
3rd. Dive - In suitable conditions, you can jump off the rocks in the corner of Outer Pool and swim for the open sea, where there is a drop to 19m with an overhang cliff covered in anemone patterns and crab colonies. Return with the rock face on your left until you come to the cave drop-off sign-posting your return route. This dive needs calm seas, low tide and knowledge of the area. Beware of urchins!
4. Diamond Rocks
The name comes from the quartz in the rocks, which glisten in the sunshine.
This dive is accessible by land along a path leading to nearby Lookout
Hill overlooking Intrinsic Bay, named after the ship which was wrecked
there at end of the 1800s. An anchor and some metal are believed to
remain in the bay if you care to search it.
Underwater, there is a reef about 6-9m deep, which protects a deep valley about 30m deep between itself and the shore. This protection can sometimes give rise to exceptional visibility within the valley. There is a nice approach from outside the reef, which crosses over two circular holes at the narrow entry which are about 6m deeper than the floor and are often full of both edible and spider crabs.
The sea face of the reef falls in steps from about 20m down to 40+m. It is interesting and varied. Avoid the reef in any type of white water, wave action, etc. This is a fair weather dive only.
5. Bishop's Island
South of Kilkee accessible only by boat is Bishop's Island.
Sheltered from South and South West swells, the terrain consists of
large boulders, gullies and a cliff face.
6. Black Rocks
This is a shore dive, very suitable for novices, on the North side of
the harbour opposite the Golf Club. There is a pathway and some steps
to the inlet. This site is affected by the prevailing Westerly winds.
A long narrow and deepening channel leads (about 2m down to 10m at it's mouth) towards the centre of the bay. The best approach for a dive is single file. the mouth of the channel is its lowest point with some kelp covered rocks and a few wrasse. The area outside is broken and not too interesting. Return through the same channel as there is no other easy exit, so good navigation is essential.
7. Middle Rock
Located in the mouth of Kilkee Bay, this is one of the finest dive sites
in the area, a very large hunk of indented rock, the middle rock of
a group shown on the charts as "Black Rocks". That just
about describes the colour of the exposed peaks visible at low tide.
This is the most diveable of the three and is well worth a visit or
two, there is more than one good dive here!
Three of the four faces, all except the East, are worthwhile. the North face is the easiest to approach, but is less well lit, particularly in the evening. The ideal approach is in calm conditions at low water, when the rock is visible.
Find the trench near the Cnap (peak), follow this Southwards. The trench widens and deepens, as you near the South face of the rock. On the right hand side of the trench you will notice a slotted hole ,this slopes downwards and exits in the back of a cave facing deeper open water.Beware of the occasional strands of coral as you come out about 27m depth on the bottom which then slopes away to the South.
There are a few more features on the South face where light is best. a different approach is to try to find the Arch hole. this is an impressive cathedral vault opening to the west, it is hard to find as prevailing conditions don't always allow water searches. approached from below the effect is noticeable.
After leaving the arch or on any other dive you can work along the rock face at your choice of depth, crossing over the West face. Depth increases rapidly towards Outer Rock. there are indented low caves on the seaward face where you can see many prawns, squat lobsters or the occasional resting monkfish. Pollack just hang off the rock in mid water.
8. Outer Rock
As it's name suggests this is the most seaward rock of the Black Rocks
and is only visible at low tide. May only be dived in good weather,
even then there can be a large swell. It is a good site with sheer cliff
faces rich in fish and plant life. There is an arch on the inner face
and the maximum depth is over 35m.
9. George's Head
George's head at the mouth of Kilkee bay has more than one dive. The
force of the Atlantic has shaped the terrain to give a number of saw-toothed
ridges with a vertical face on the exposed side and a sloped back on
the landward side. There are a number of canyons, cliff faces and a
tunnel running into the Head itself. It is the terrain, rather than
flora in this exposed location, which is the real attraction of the
area. Diving is possible is most reasonable sea conditions, avoiding
areas of breaking waves.
Area A - This is a 15 m exploration of the channel which cuts into the head, you can see through the cliff above water level. This needs reasonably calm weather. You can explore the channel, which is longer than it seems, the bottom of which is covered in huge boulders. No plant life, but often shellfish and the occasional tope. On leaving, if air allows, follow the cliff to the left. A very large conger occupies (or fills!) a low wide hole near a large rock - worth a look!
Area B - This dive is possible in almost all, except the most sever, weather conditions. Once the inner line of the Head cuts off the view of the hut in Burn's Cove and the boat stays 100m from the land, avoiding the waves formed at the corner, it is even possible to anchor. Drop into the nearest valley and work from there. Navigation skills are needed.
In rougher conditions it is better towards South or West. In calm conditions all directions give pleasing results.
The valley marked B is worthwhile and leads to a nice open cliff face. The cliff which faces South West, is usually well lit and has good fish life. There are some caves with varied terrain with a few strands of coral.
The cliff face C reminds one of Arizona, it is stark and majestic in it's form and colour. To find it cross the ridge from B. The valley leads back towards the Head and Chimney Bay and is not shown here in full detail.
10. Illaunabaha
The headland just before Biraghty Mór has a reef running Westwards.
It is sheer on it's South side and sloped on it's North side. The rock
bottom on the South side varies from 25m to 35+m and the ground away
from the rock is deep. The plant and fish life is good and colourful.
The North side slopes away to 40+m.
The reef is diveable up to Force 4 winds but be careful in strong swells. A good site for "spiritual renewal" and almost always a satisfying dive.
11. Biraghty Mór
About 1km North of Kilkee Bay this island is worth a visit. With a sheer
face on the landward side and sloped on the sea face it is sheltered
from the Westerly swells. It has a rock bottom on a sheer face varying
from 25m to 35+m with the ground away from the rock very deep. The plant
and fish life is excellent. The shelter of the rock allows diving inside
a large cave at it's SW corner.
12. Biraghty Beg
A rocky island about 1.5km North of Kilkee, smaller than Biraghty Mór
and thus more exposed to the prevailing winds. Dived only in calm weather,
the site is not well known. The ground is more varied with channels,
but there is less life than Biraghty Mór. WARNING: Beware of nets!
There are plenty more sites further along the entire length of the coast South to Loop Head but with few places for shore access.