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Aran Island, Co. Donegal

Donegal has many fine dive sites, but none better than the sites around Aran Island near Burtonport.

Have a look at the chart of Aranmore and you will see that there will always be sheltered shores. Burtonport has a lot going for it. Accommodation is relatively plentiful and the large slipway is good at any state of the tide. There are white sandy beaches for the kids and local establishments certainly know how to cater for hungry and thirsty divers.

As a general rule if you can get access to the exposed Western side of Aranmore go there, keeping the sheltered sites for when the Westerlies blow.

1. Tomeady Point
Plenty of sheer faces and overhangs coupled with lots of fish made this a popular dive. The North face with depths of 35m is the more dramatic side. Keep an eye out for Alcyonium Glomerutum, the red dead men's fingers, which are quite scarce this far North.

2. Paradise Cavern
Halfway along the narrow channel between Tomeady and Aran is an entrance to Paradise Cavern. The other entrance is just South and is more suited to mooring the boat (which should never be left unattended). Divers, snorkellers and photographers who love stunning marine life will appreciate the name. The wall and overhangs are absolutely smothered in anemones of many species and colours and in the spring the sea firs are prey to hundreds of nudibranchs.

3. Pinnacle Rock
Here there are steep rock faces down to 20m with plenty of fish including friendly Cuckoo Wrasse. You can circumnavigate the rock and finish off the dive in the sea cave to the Southwest. As with most areas around Aran Island, the best displays of anemones are in shallow water.

4. The Skiford
Just East of Bullignamirra Rock lies the Skiford, a trawler which went down in a storm in the mid-eighties. Tragically all hands were lost.

The wreck lies listing to starboard in 26n with a reef a few metres to the North. Visibility is usually good and from amidshpis the whole intact ship can be seen. Trawl nets festoon the stern section and marine life is sparse, apart plumose anemones which clothe the fore and aft masts.
A Dive you'll never forget.

5. Rutland Sound
This is the main thoroughfare for traffic between Burtonport and Aranmore Harbour and is over 20m deep in places. the channel sides drop steeply to 10-15m and there is a pleasant swim through on the Southern side. Bring a good torch to light up the nooks and crevices.

The rock walls are dominated by turnicates such as Ascidia Aspersa which is indicative of strong currents but no wave action. Kelp stalks are smothered in bright yellow and orange sponges and the shingle, sand and rock sea bed offers a variety of habitats to keep marine biologists and photographers happy.

The currents in the sound are strong with upward and downward eddies to the South caused by spring tides. An SMB normally used on drift dives can be a hindrance here, particularly when the ferry is bearing down on it! Use common sense.

Rutland Sound provides good diving by itself and because it is so sheltered can be dived even in the foulest of weather.

6. Inishcoo
There is a shallow drift dive here, maximum depth is 10m. access is a bit awkward due to rocks and the shallow approaches.

7. The Greek Wreck
Just out from Aranmore Harbour in 6m lie the gutted remains of a large cargo steamer. It is the "Eleftherios", known locally as the Greek wreck. There are lots of nooks to explore and there is a swim-through at the stern with the large propeller at the entrance. A long drive shaft, rather like a pipeline leads to the engine, boilers and condenser which still has a large stack of brass pipes. Makes a good third or fourth dive of the day.

8. Illanaran
At Illanaran and Blackrock Point there are some tremendous gullies on the Western side of Illanaran and under the cliffs of Aran Island to the East you will find interlinking caves. In one of these caves two divers died of fright when a large grey seal slid between them in the gloom!

9. Sharp Rock
A steep rock pinnacle going down to 20m. The scenery around the pinnacle looks interesting and to dive across to the shore would probably be very good.

10. Lighthouse Steps
Rock walls, gullies and overhangs to 20m make this a varied site. however, it is typical of the whole Western coast so choosing a reasonable dive for your buddies need not be a risky business.

Do make sure that your boats and your divers are properly equipped. A chat with the local fishermen about tides, currents and salmon nets is usually a good idea.